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$215/250 – An authentic, exact, part-for-part Klon replica that is also sold as an unassembled kit (for $25 less).
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The Best Klon Centaur Clones (Above $150) Some say it doesn’t compare to the original, but considering it was built by Finnegan himself, the KTR is the closest to the Centaur a pedal can get, according to its creator, who – by the way – thinks it sounds exactly the same.Ĭonsidering the variety of devices inspired by the Klon Centaur, we decided to organize our content in the following categories – click to jump to the one you are interested in:Ĭlicking/Tapping on the images in the galleries below will open a pedal description and a demo video! A toggle was added to switch between true or buffered bypass. The original Centaur took up a beastly amount of pedalboard space, and the KTR (manufactured by Klon’s inventor Bill Finnegan himself, but contracted out to make it compatible with mass production) features a smaller footprint. The Newer Centaur: Klon KTRĬlick image for video. (You can find a more comprehensive history of the Klon here.)Ĭircuit geeks interested in knowing more details about the Klon circuit and its cloning history must watch this video by The Living Room Demos or this one by JHS. Finnegan stopped building the original model in 2009 – at that point, he had hand-wired 5,400 of them. Within a few years, the pedal gained legendary status, also because of the maker’s dedication to customer service, and to hand-wiring every unit that left their shop. It could be used as a supplement, or as the focal point of a rig, and many famous players loved it as a clean boost and many others as an “amp-in-a-box.” The point being, it excelled at everything. Its 18v circuit, combined with a circuit optimized to minimize compression, made it extremely dynamic. Personally, I simply don't care what name is on the product as long as it performs as it should.īTW, the PB1000 pedal board is really useful and extremely well made.With an initial price tag of $225 (hefty for 1994), the Klon Centaur provided transparent, glassy mojo, while adding pleasing harmonic content to whatever signal chain was lucky enough to go through it. The other Behringer product I have (maybe I got lucky!), are actually well made and work just fine. If you want a pedal that works but don't want to spend for the Ibanez, the Behringer pedal will do just fine. To compare different manufacturers pedals, eg., the Behringer TO800 Vintage Tube Overdrive with the Ibanez TS808 Tubescreamer is simply pointless. As with all pedals, they might work with some amps well and not that well with others. Obviously, those are personal preferences and depend on the taste. Still, the switches could be better and that is the only issue with Behringer pedals.Īs for the sound, some are not very good, some are OK and a some are actually very good. My only issue with them is the switch but I recently discovered that when the switch starts giving problems, a fair dose of Electronic Cleaner solves the issue. Quite the opposite, and some of them have more than 400 hours of usage time. I don't gig but I'm certainly not gentle with them. I don't mind that the pedals are plastic and I haven't managed to physically break one yet. The pedals work fine and do their job quite well.
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Generally, I like Behringer products and had no issues with them. I also have a bunch of Fender, Marshall, Vox, Ibanez etc. I tried a lot more of them and also have various Behringer products, among others, the Bugera 333XL-212, EURORACK UB1002, Ultra-G GI100, Firebird GX108 15W amp, and recently I acquired PB1000 Pedal board. and about 7-8 Behringer pedals as well (probably more).